Inside the Maison de l’UNESCO, the set for the LOEWE Women’s Spring Summer 2020 show is a pristine sanctuary of rich cream carpet. A décor of potted pampas grass and monolithic amethyst geodes is framed by undulating curtains of varying opacity – their serenity interrupted by perpetual mechanical movement.
Designed by Jonathan Anderson, the collection alludes to a patrician elegance — where extremes of femininity and luxury are pushed to ethereal heights. Evading pastiche, razor sharp statements of LOEWE craft and meticulous construction go hand in hand with a hint of drama. Plays on suspension, intimacy and control join new pannier shapes and explorations of ornament — deconstructing elements of boudoir vocabulary.
Employing a judicious harmony of crisp and decorative fabrics, superimposed surfaces question the relationship between inside and out. Geometric, guipure, Chantilly and marguerite lace are encrusted with matte cottons and Japanese satin, as circular macramé, organdie bows and pin-tucked voile create precious artisanal transparencies. Framing the handkerchief hemline of dresses and skirts, neat tailoring and bonded trenches cascade from the back or bust in ruffled volumes. The form of a cape expands from knitted shrugs to a billowing poncho coat with extravagant sleeves, as delicate overlays of fringe, pearls and wooden beading fall off bared shoulders.
The LOEWE accessories collection introduces the Balloon bag: a sculpted drawstring bucket style in three sizes crafted in refined materials like smooth calfskin, crochet raffia and classic canvas. For evening, the classic Heel pouch is resized as a minaudière in exotic skins such as lizard and crocodile decorated with fancy trims from marabou and fringed tassels to a crystal hibiscus brooch. The penny loafer is re-proportioned as a suede python cuissarde, square-toed boot or cut-out mule, joined by patent tango shoes and a stacked mod slip-on.De Morgan’s life changed in 1863 when he met the textile designer William Morris. He joined the decorative arts company Morris & Co. that same year, and soon took charge of its tile design and production. In keeping with the Arts and Crafts creed of technical experimentation, he developed his own innovative methods of glazing, firing and colouring.
LOEWE’s new Balloon bag was the star of the Women’s Spring Summer 2020 show. Drawing on the house’s longstanding expertise in leatherwork, the Balloon bag is crafted from two kinds of leather: a round structured base of robust calf leather and sitting inside of that, a sac of soft napa calfskin. This napa is of the highest, most full-bodied quality so the bag is left unlined. It’s just as smooth and tactile on the inside as out.