An exploration of silhouette and texture, looking for new ways to work with craft. The opulence of fabric and the dramatic grandeur of the lines convey ideas of optimism and excitement. The LOEWE Fall Winter 2020 2021 collection is about the pleasure of playing with fashion. Looking at the past to project into the future, creative director Jonathan Anderson feeds on both the austereness and the pomp of Spanish iconography to conceive exaggerated shapes that are regal as they are harsh. Volumes are extreme, suspended, dropped and engineered. The juxtapositions of textures are extremized in amalgamations of coarseness and shine, opulence and utilitarianism, wools and brocades, sturdy cottons and jacquard silks, solid surfaces and bold patterns.
Inflated sleeves. Raised necklines. Sculptural collars. The flatness of a bodice and the sprouting froth of draping. All of a sudden, the hysteria of a feathered headcover. Takuro Kuwata’s ceramic pieces are incorporated onto dresses and on the drawstring of Flamenco clutches. The regalness equals a certain roundness — bejeweled shoe clips on pumps and sneakers, the Hammock tote in suede and calf. The playfulness is dry, pushed to a boyish edge. The pleasure of couture jolliness happens in a surreal context.
Stripping things to technique to let the grain of the material dialogue with the couture opulence of the shapes. The LOEWE Fall Winter 2020 2021 collection pairs textures and forms in blunt juxtapositions of opacity and shine, curves and perpendicularity, satin and double-face wool, crystals and knit, double-breasted and prom dress, kinetic motifs and plainness. Creative director Jonathan Anderson works on notions of motion and tension, with a sense of optimism pushed to an obscure edge. The function is reduced, or twisted; definitions are blurred. A blazer is meant as outerwear, army shorts resemble a skirt, sleeves are elongated, a cape is morphed into a coat. Opulence is in the way pieces are constructed — the curve of a sleeve, the Balloon bag in oro suede and calf —or a sudden burst of embroidery— on a bluson, or the jumbo Elephant bag. In the feel of optimism, felt hats and shoes are infantile presences. An idea of scorched glamour comes to the fore.
The LOEWE accessories collection introduces the Balloon bag: a sculpted drawstring bucket style in three sizes crafted in refined materials like smooth calfskin, crochet raffia and classic canvas. For evening, the classic Heel pouch is resized as a minaudière in exotic skins such as lizard and crocodile decorated with fancy trims from marabou and fringed tassels to a crystal hibiscus brooch. The penny loafer is re-proportioned as a suede python cuissarde, square-toed boot or cut-out mule, joined by patent tango shoes and a stacked mod slip-on.
LOEWE’s new Balloon bag was the star of the Women’s Spring Summer 2020 show. Drawing on the house’s longstanding expertise in leatherwork, the Balloon bag is crafted from two kinds of leather: a round structured base of robust calf leather and sitting inside of that, a sac of soft napa calfskin. This napa is of the highest, most full-bodied quality so the bag is left unlined. It’s just as smooth and tactile on the inside as out.